Your cart

Your cart is empty

Erie Beach Park – The Lore and the Legacy

By June E. Chipp

The concrete supports of the Erie Beach swing ride stood on the Lake Erie shore for nearly 100 years, before being toppled by a winter storm in November 2020. Credit: Author’s photograph, 2011

Erie Beach is a magical place. The old maples and ancient oaks harbor Carolinian flora and fauna, including numerous species of birds, squirrels, foxes and the occasional deer, while along the shoreline and throughout the woods, numerous old concrete ruins stand eerily silent. This place, sometimes referred to as Waverly Woods and situated just across the mouth of the Niagara River from Buffalo, has been known to Western New Yorkers and native Fort Erieans for a long time. 

It was the site of the old Erie Beach Amusement Park. Recent visitors and those who rambled among the crumbling ruins in their youth hold the spot near and dear to their hearts. In 2020, a communal sigh of sadness followed the fierce November storm that took down the exotic looking pillars of a swing ride that had stood for almost 100 years on the rocky beach. Those with imaginative minds claim to hear the voices of happy children on the rides. Others go deeper and talk of soldiers marching through the wood, said to be from the War of 1812.

The amusement park rose to the height of its glory days between 1910 and 1930. It was touted as Buffalo's $2 million playground, with landscaped gardens, dozens of rides and all kinds of special events in the huge stadium. In 1930, it was forced to close due to the Great Depression. Today, as you approach the area from the walkway at Waverly Beach Park, what remains of the big concrete outdoor swimming pool is unmistakable, still holding firm against the constant battering of the lake. Along the public promenade are remnants of the bathing beaches, the dance hall, the slide ride and the circle swing that finally gave up the ghost in 2020 and now lies toppled on the scarp. Other ruins suggest the location of the various rides, along with an electric fountain and concrete promenade with illuminated lamp posts holding flower urns, which amazed people at a time before the village of Fort Erie had electric lighting.

The large, outdoor pavilion, complete with bandstand, at Erie Beach Amusement Park, ca. 1925.  The swing ride and its concrete supports are visible in the background.

Credit: Niagara Falls (Ont.) Public Library

How did this amazing place get started? The clues are few in number. Tradition has it the story began in 1885 when three men—Benjamin Baxter, Edwy (often misspelled Edward or Edwin) Baxter and William B. Pearce—established a picnic ground. And what of the much-maligned theory of a connection with the War of 1812? Recently discovered and re-discovered historical documents, along with newly digitized Buffalo newspapers, shed some light on those questions.

Bucolic Beginnings

Benjamin and Edwy Baxter were brothers from Fort Erie, Ontario. Benjamin was a medical doctor who had a practice in Cayuga, Ontario, about 50 miles to the west, with another brother, Dr. Jacob Baxter. Edwy operated a successful grain business, selling his product at the Corn Exchange on the Central Wharf in Buffalo. In later life, these two men envisioned creating a wonderful place where people could commune with nature, enjoy a picnic and socialize with their friends in beautiful surroundings. In 1885, they secured by lease from the Canadian government five acres of land on the Lake Erie shore at what is now Fort Erie’s Helena Street. One year later, in 1886, they added more acreage bringing the total to 11, comprising the land along the lake below Lakeshore Road from Helena Street to Adelaide Street. They would convert their lease to personal ownership via a Crown Patent about ten years later.

The Baxters' land, which consisted of a cleared woodland of old oaks and maples, was part of the Canadian Military Reserve attached to old Fort Erie. After the British Army abandoned the fort in the 1820s, it was used as a picnic ground. Being located on the edge of a snake-ridden sand dune, it was known as Snake Hill Grove. One picnic held on the grounds was described in the Buffalo Courier of May 12, 1863: 

We learn from the Catholic Sentinel that preparations are being made by the Catholic Ladies at Fort Erie for a Pic Nic at Snake Hill Grove (near the old fort) on Monday, May 25, for the benefit of the Catholic School of that place. Music and various amusements will be had.

The Baxters called their special place Erie Grove, and fitted it out with amenities, including seating under the trees, sidewalks, a dance pavilion and a lunchroom for comfortable picnicking. “The scene presented from Fort Erie Grove is ever-varying and beautiful,” wrote the Buffalo Express on July 5, 1885, “the City of Buffalo, steamers, sail craft, panting tugs, and the ever-sounding lake, are elements of a lovely picture.”

This 1853 map shows the area of the military reserve surrounding the ruins of Fort Erie, including Snake Hill visible at the upper left of the reserve.

Credit: National Archives of Canada

The spot soon became a favorite, not just for day-trippers but for annual picnics. The Baxters delighted in welcoming people to their creation, as was evident from an article in The Buffalo Commercial of July 23, 1885: “The Sunday School of the Church of the Messiah, had their annual picnic at this place. . . Mr. Baxter, the manager, had a conveyance ready to take all baskets and parcels to the grove. . . and everyone was made to feel at home.”

The founders made sure that Americans could also enjoy the grounds by establishing a ferry service, which departed regularly from the foot of Main Street, made a stop at the old fort, then landed at a dock at Fort Erie Grove. The International Ferry Company had among its principals Benjamin Baxter, Edwy Baxter, Dr. William B. Pierce of Buffalo, (who also resided in Fort Erie), James S. Ladd, a Buffalo grocer, and Gustavus Bassett. The four streets adjacent to the grove were named after them—Bassett, Ladd (now Helena Street), Pierce (now closed) and Baxter (now Beachview Avenue) avenues. Pierce and Beachview Road allowances are now public accesses to the beach. 

There's so much more history in store.

In 1886, the Baxter brothers and their partner added train service from the ferry landing to make it easier for visitors to reach their park.  The train would stop at the ruins of old Fort Erie along the way. Credit: Fort Erie Public Library

Dr. Benjamin Baxter and Dr. William Pierce had both attended the Buffalo Medical College, and being the same age (born in 1836) may have been in the same graduating class. William Pierce’s brother was George Norman Pierce, founder of the Pierce-Arrow Motor Car Company. Some people in Fort Erie can recall these fancy vehicles being stored in a carriage house along the Friendship Trail, a multi-use path from Fort Erie to Port Colborne on what was once the Buffalo and Lake Huron Railroad, which passes through Erie Beach.

In 1886, access to the grove was made even more convenient with the installation of a train service. The track was specially constructed to run from the ferry dock in Fort Erie (also operated by the International Ferry Company). A few stops were made along the way, including at the old fort, the ruins of which remained a tourist attraction. The train was given the tongue-in-cheek name of “The Fort Erie, Snake Hill and Pacific Railroad.” Locally, it became known as “The Sandfly Express” for the annoying insects that remain prevalent along the region’s waterfront.

Although Erie Grove was privately owned and operated, it was, for all intents and purposes, like a public park. The concept of public parks was a relatively new one in the late 19th century. It was during this same period, between 1868 and 1896, that Frederick Law Olmsted and his partner Calvert Vaux designed the Niagara Reservation State Park, as well as a park system for the City of Buffalo. Their vision was to provide a place where everyone could come freely to enjoy open green spaces, picnic with their families and escape the stress of daily life. The Baxter brothers and their associates would no doubt have been familiar with, and were probably inspired by, the work of Frederick Olmsted.

While the Baxters were obtaining a lease for their section of the military reserve, there was a movement afoot to save the grounds and ruins of the old fort adjacent to their land, in order to preserve its history and to honor the soldiers who had fallen there. The site of several forts during the 18th and early 19th century, the most recent Fort Erie had been captured by American forces in July 1814, during the War of 1812, whereupon they greatly expanded the fortifications.  Later that summer, British forces under Lt. General Gordon Drummond laid siege to the fort, launching a multi-pronged night assault on the American works on August 15.  The fort was finally abandoned by the Americans that November.  The site is still considered to be the bloodiest battlefield in the history of Canada.

The ruins of old Fort Erie, as they appeared ca. 1910.

Credit: Niagara Falls (Ont.) Public Library

In January 1887, a petition was presented to the Canadian government by the County of Welland, supported by local historical societies, to preserve these grounds. The government recommended that the old fort property be preserved as a “public park.” Reconstruction of the fort followed in the 1930s and today Old Fort Erie is a National Historic Site operated by the Niagara Parks Commission, an agency of the Province of Ontario.

Were the Baxters influenced by the history of the War of 1812 and the old fort? Their decision to extend the area of their lease beyond the original five-acre plot may be a clue. This addition brought their property up to the southern edge of what had been the American works in 1814—and the location of Snake Hill, which had been a hotly contested point in the works during General Drummond’s August 15 night assault. 

As it happens, Benjamin and Edwy Baxter were grandsons of Captain John Baxter of the 3rd Lincoln Militia, who had served with the British in the War of 1812. They may have been told family stories of the assault on Snake Hill and how wounded soldiers had been treated in their grandfather's barn. The Baxter family were United Empire Loyalists (American colonists who allied themselves with Great Britain during the American Revolution) and were heavily invested in the military. In addition to two of Captain John's brothers being in the 3rd Lincoln Militia, two of his sons served in the 5th Lincoln Militia during the rebellion of 1838. Benjamin's brother, Dr. Jacob Baxter, served as surgeon to the 2nd Battalion, Haldimand Rifles. In addition, two descendant relatives would be officers in the Canadian military. One of them, who was named after Edwy, was Lieutenant-Colonel Edwy S. Baxter, who commanded the 114th Overseas Battalion before succumbing to illness in 1916. Thus, preserving the Snake Hill battleground as a place where Canadians and Americans could come together for peaceful enjoyment may well have been a source of pride for Benjamin and Edwy Baxter. 

The Baxter’s ancestral property played a role in the battles surrounding the 1814 siege of Fort Erie. Orders issued to the British column assigned to move against the southern portion of the American works on the night of August 15 included instructions that “On reaching Baxter's you will halt for the night.” From Captain Baxter's farm, four miles to the west, the column marched through Erie Beach while moving to attack the American battery at the top of Snake Hill. Met with strong resistance by the ready and waiting Americans, the column suffered massive casualties before retreating by the way they had come, taking their wounded to Captain Baxter's barn.

This 1910 map shows the early layout of the Erie Beach Amusement Park. Visible features include the hotel, bathing beach, electric fountain, stadium and rail line from the ferry. Credit: Author’s collection

From Picnics to Playground

Fort Erie Grove continued as an enhanced picnic ground for 25 years, and the name evolved into Fort Erie Beach. In 1910, the park, the ferry service and railway were acquired by a group of Buffalo-based businessmen who transformed it into the Erie Beach Amusement Park. They made numerous improvements and additions, including a roller coaster called the “Scenic Railway,” which may have replaced an existing figure-eight coaster. 

A highlight was the three-storey casino—a dancehall that boasted a large restaurant and change rooms for 250 people, with a protected sand bathing beach in front.  A huge sports stadium was built, located in the northern part of the property and extending all the way to Dominion Road. Here many sporting and other types of events took place. One special event in 1913 was a huge “peace celebration,” where the launch of a new bridge linking the two countries was announced—to be known as “the Peace Bridge.”

The Erie Beach Hotel was the site of the first conference of the Niagara Movement in 1905.

Credit: Author’s Collection

The magic of electricity was brought into the park with an electric fountain and a promenade running along the waterfront illuminated by electric lights on posts decorated with urns of hanging plants. This must have been an awesome sight for local visitors who did not yet have electric power in their village. There was a grand hotel on the property, called the Erie Beach Hotel, where many of the rooms had private bathrooms with hot and cold running water. In 1905, this hotel played host to the first conference of the “Niagara Movement,” the forerunner of the NAACP.

In 1915, the whole property was purchased by a Mr. Frank Bardol of Buffalo, who continued to expand the park. By 1923, there were no less than 50 amusements, including the Slide Tower, spinning Circle Swing on the beach, the Tumblebug and the Blue Streak. This latter was a huge roller coaster running along the shore, parallel to the water and extending well beyond the pier. There was also a midway, a zoo with exotic animals and circus acts. Perhaps the biggest attraction was the outdoor swimming pool. Initially, the sand beach was made into a large bathing pool enclosed by breakwaters, with a pump bringing in fresh lake water. Later, the concrete swimming pool was built, with a sand bottom and a new pump. Both these pools were advertised as “the world’s largest outdoor pool”.

Over the years, various ferry boats served the park, operating out of Buffalo, including Niagara, Hope and Niagara Frontier.  They arrived at the 1,000-foot pier extending out into the lake. By the 1920s, people were arriving in automobiles. The park continued to grow until it had 100 midway attractions. However, with cars becoming more common, people were now able to drive farther afield to other attractions, and when the Depression hit, the park was unable to survive and closed in 1930.

Visitors gather in front of one of the Erie Beach Amusement Park’s roller coasters (left) while others stroll along the Promenade (right).

Credit: Private collection and Niagara Falls (Ont.) Public Library

The rides were sold off and the structures torn down, except for the hotel, which burned down in 1935, and the casino, which was demolished in 1976. One lone survivor of the park exists—a fascinating wooden mechanical bull, which was a strength-testing device on the midway. He was sent to be on display at the Herschel Factory Museum in North Tonawanda.

Unlike the Crystal Beach Amusement Park, which was bulldozed off the face of the earth, the remnants of the Erie Beach Amusement Park were left to fade away, washed by the waves, covered by the blowing sand and reclaimed by the woods. The swimming pool wall still stands firm against the currents of Lake Erie and the remnants of the pier still stretch out into the lake. The concrete circle where the slide ride stood on the beach is clearly visible, as is the circle where a fountain once flowed.

When the park closed in 1930, the rides were sold but the remnants of the park were left to crumble—or be reclaimed by nature.

Credit: Author’s photograph, 2011

This famous place, with all its rides, attractions and natural beauty, would be remembered long after it closed in 1930. The concrete walkways turned into nature trails wending through the woods that grew up, transforming the area into a natural habitat for wildlife. For generations, people continued to come here, to Erie Beach, for respite and enjoyment, just as the original founders had intended. The magic still reaches out to us and today respite in such a place is more important than ever. But now we face new challenges. Will the legacy of Erie Beach continue?  The story goes on, but only time will tell. And time is running out.

Want to read more about some of the rides and see even more pictures?  Check them out here:

https://www.wnyheritage.org/content/erie_beach_amusement_park_rides_and_remnants/index.html

About the Author

June E. Chipp is a local Fort Erie author and has published 4 books on the history of Fort Erie and area.